The character Vanessa Bruno drew for Fall was a magical, pixielike girl, but one who prefers city streets and anime to enchanted forests and fables. That gave a mix of dark fairylike charm to the proceedings, in its delightfully witchy palette of bottle greens and violets suspended in a sea of black. Bruno's counterpoint to the floatier side of her notion was a relatively minimalist approach to the silhouette. The broad outlines were smart: a rounded coat or jacket over jaunty cropped trousers, or a dress with tight long sleeves and a flaring skirt. A cool, chunky-heeled motorcycle boot was the finishing touch.

When filling things in, Bruno was at her best with a very light hand. You often wanted her interesting effects of jewel-hued techno fabrics and sweaters knitted and embroidered with Lurex to have their moment to shine. And by show's end, it was as if a fashion Tinkerbell had granted your wish. Bruno ended on a strong note with a group of dresses whose embellishments sparkled against their black fabrics, and were a sweet take on the season's generally darker direction.