Barbara and Lucia Croce have replaced Rodolfo Paglialunga at Vionnet. Their style is more minimal than that of their predecessor—you won't be seeing the flowers, stars, and butterflies Rudy did for Spring while the twin sisters are at the label. Another thing that was new for the house was the focus on daywear, especially pants. Trousers aren't necessarily a part of the Madeleine Vionnet oeuvre, but they're pretty essential to modern women's lives, so the young duo was savvy to include them in their presentation. To keep them on brand, they showed them with tunics cut on the square in the classic Vionnet style.

Paglialunga's path to success had been to concentrate on evening, especially looks for the red carpet, where he had started to gain some traction with the celebrity set. The Croce sisters have aimed their sights at professional women who have just as much need for a hammered satin jacket and georgette palazzo pants, or a cool fur coat made from fox and beaver, as they do for an evening gown. That seems like a good business plan: There are more of us than them.