March 02, 2012 Paris
Would you read that in the tea leaves of these 36 looks? It's doubtful, but that's not a bad thing. Even as the show cycled from melancholy blacks to proper tweeds and, eventually, ladylike pastels, there was a real cohesiveness in the boxy, sixties-tinged shapes. The story provided the element of tension in, for instance, all those skirtsuit-y silhouettes worn with platform-wedge combat boots and blackened silver floral necklaces and cuffs, or the layering of coats and cardigans that Leroy saw as her muse's main mode of sartorial rebellion.
As ever with Leroy, her fabrics, like trompe l'oeil fake furs made out of mohair and wool, and the great bouncy nylon jacquard knits, were worthy of note. But it's the slightly off-kilter yet alluring proportions that gave this collection its strong point of view.