Volume is one of the season's big stories. That puts Véronique Leroy, who has quite a way with all things oversize and full, right in the thick of things. Leroy doesn't seem to design a collection as much as construct one, particularly with the heftier fabrics of fall and winter. Her narrative this time conjured a rebellious girl who's trying to become a productive member of society. Her solution is to co-opt her elegant mother's clothes. The happy ending: She gets a job and merges mumsy's wardrobe with her punk sensibility.

Would you read that in the tea leaves of these 36 looks? It's doubtful, but that's not a bad thing. Even as the show cycled from melancholy blacks to proper tweeds and, eventually, ladylike pastels, there was a real cohesiveness in the boxy, sixties-tinged shapes. The story provided the element of tension in, for instance, all those skirtsuit-y silhouettes worn with platform-wedge combat boots and blackened silver floral necklaces and cuffs, or the layering of coats and cardigans that Leroy saw as her muse's main mode of sartorial rebellion.

As ever with Leroy, her fabrics, like trompe l'oeil fake furs made out of mohair and wool, and the great bouncy nylon jacquard knits, were worthy of note. But it's the slightly off-kilter yet alluring proportions that gave this collection its strong point of view.