Wayne Lee will not deny her inclination to study industry veterans Rick Owens and Ann Demeulemeester for inspiration. But after today's show, it's clear that the new mom knows how to make her collection look and feel like her own. Lee stuck with the "Wayne DNA" (she's trying to build a lifestyle brand) yet her signature separates in black, gray, white, and the occasional brown were infused with surprising pops of neon on the shoulders of tanks and the tails of coats, and for the first time, the designer used snakeskin. Lee worked the glossy reptile leather into shirts and dresses, and used an abstract cobra print to create free-flowing silk wide-leg pants that were paired with a chunky cable-knit sweater.

Also new for Fall was a sporty theme. Baseball tees with leather sleeves, hooded jackets, pinstriped leggings, and monochrome low-top Converse sneakers ruled the runway. But from the way Amanda Brooks and Mark Lee of Barneys (which the designer says has always been her biggest supporter) snapped pictures from the front row, it seemed that the last look, a long black coat with a raccoon collar, was what earned the designer a home run.