Butterflies were the theme du jour at Willow
, though you wouldn't necessarily get that just from looking at the clothes. As designer Kit Willow explained, the inspiration was mainly a conceptual one, but it trickled down into the collection's circular seaming, cocoon shapes, and monarch butterfly palette of orange and black. The construction here was interesting: jackets made using only three arcing seams, drop-waist skirts with a kind of skeleton of rounded pleats, long dresses with a winglike flap. Willow's strongest pieces relied on her very cool French tweed. Two particular standouts were the cocoonish, dress-up/dress-down coat, faced in leather, that cleverly set the tweed's stripe against itself, and a seriously chic dress with a fitted, long-sleeve top and skirt that fell in an off-center cascade. Elsewhere, Willow used her signature seed beading to graphic effect, and she cut some very sharp boot-leg trousers. All in all, this was a very grown-up outing from Willow: The pieces were less flirty than usual but ultimately very seductive.