Fall 2013 Couture
July 04, 2013 Paris
Kristen Stewart was seated front-row at Zuhair Murad's Couture show. Typically, celeb sightings aren't worth calling out in a review, but Stewart's support of the designer is actually very telling. When he is on his game—when he applies some restraint to his maximal style—he arrives at a tone that, in red-carpet terms, is unique. Ideally, a Murad girl wears her sensuality darkly, à la Kristen Stewart. And it was easy to imagine the actress turning up at an awards show in one of the designer's goth-glam gowns, like the slinky burgundy high-neck velvet number, with his signature tattoo-style embroidery. More than a few of Murad's lamé creations would work on Stewart, too—a gown in midnight-blue lamé, with allover Madame Grés pleating, was a particular standout among that group. He was trading between two key themes—the pleated lamé, deployed to architectural effect, and the overtly gothic, marked by lace, those Victorian necklines, and lots and lots of hand-beading in the shape of barren tree branches. The embroidery was a little overbearing at times, but in general both themes worked. Then Murad also saw fit to introduce a Deco note and some trim lace suits and more. This show could have used a stiff edit. He would do well to heed his number-one muse and ask himself: Would Kristen wear it?