January 09, 2013 Milan
It had its ups and downs, like life. The bracing peacockiness of the menswear was as brash as ever: "It's classic pieces," Pompilio demurred, and so it is, but he styles it (himself, mind) for maximum kook effect. The windowpane jacket, the pattern adapted from an old checked-paper sketchbook found at his mother's house, came with a polka-dot foulard and cotton-candy-colored trousers; that the model was also carrying a pair of leather gloves, like he would have been in a men's magazine spread of the eighties, only heightened the now-and-then effect. Also effective were the all-in-one looks that reimagined the suit as a matched peacoat and pants, or bomber and pants. Less successful was that first foray into women's. It seemed to owe a debt less to Pompilio's menswear but to the recent reigning champs of women's fashion: There was a wide swath of Céline here, bits and bobs of Balenciaga and Prada there. If his womenswear finds its footing and reaches the level of the menswear, it could be very good, indeed. And flats, like those he showed, are good for that.