January 14, 2013 Milan
Brioni's gray-haired reputation is something that its previous creative director, Jason Basmajian, battled, too, and he had some success broadening the line's offerings to invite in new generations of fans. But Brioni may always be an older man's game. Few young men, save those of princely extraction, can afford the label's luxe—most gratuitously displayed here in the form of a crocodile bomber with white gold zips and a mink lining.
The collection's styles remained studiously, if pleasantly, untrendy, inspired by luxury train travel. But Mullane's initial outing included smart steps in an evolving direction. He introduced a new suit fit, the Gaetano, slimming the arms, raising the armholes, and tapering the legs while maintaining the traditional Brioni natural shoulder. And he worked to unify the collection by using materials and details across categories: Suiting may be Brioni's trump card, but now its jackets feature the same hand-stitching as its suit jackets, accompanied by bags in the same fabrics as its outerwear.