Christopher Shannon insisted on "muckiness" and "dirtiness" as guiding principles. "I'm always around sportswear references, and they're quite clean," he sniffed. So he'd been casting around for new inspirations and watching Hoarders and the like in his off hours. Eureka. "Sometimes what you're looking at becomes your reference," he said with a laugh. "There's a fine line between art and mental disease."

So stitch it in, pile it on. Many of the Shannon pieces were actually multipieces: jeans collaged from various fabrics, knits cobbled from bits of knit, part cabled, part flat, part… SpongeBob, was that, grinning from the upper right? They were a hoot. As before, Shannon acknowledged that commercial concerns were high on his list of priorities, so nothing odd was too odd. He'd expanded his repertoire, adding leather for the first time, in long-tailed shirts and jeans. It's canny to suggest your wares are hoardable, and that desire spares no one—so a group of girls hit the men's catwalk, too. The real surprise here, the shirtsleeves hanging on by a zip notwithstanding, was how clean and well arranged it all wound up looking.