Zegna's last collection, for Spring, was all about silk. And then, in a more surprising turn of events, Zegna's new collection for Fall was, too. After the show, Anna Zegna was enthusing that all of the show's suits were shot through with silk, carded like wool, and worked with cashmere onto beaver cloths. A technician at one of Zegna's new silk mills would have to walk you through the specifics. Suffice it to say, innovation begins at the loom—if not even farther back, at the worm.

In keeping with what's already emerging as a trend this Milan season, those suits were longer, their jackets lower, the waistbands higher (and pressing up higher still with matching cummerbunds). They were worn with matching knits or, in some cases, fencing-style padded vests. They came with coats in Zegna's own alpaca, Spazzolino, or shaved mink; the sportier looks, with jackets in deerskin and knitted silk.

Luxe wasn't wanting. Neither was tech. An element of excitement might've been. Most eyes landed on Zegna's newly appointed head of design, Stefano Pilati, whose first collection arrives this summer. There's a good bet for it.