January 13, 2013 Milan
Coat weather. Ferragamo is here to provide. Massimiliano Giornetti's latest show was a paean of sorts to outerwear, the more massive (his word), the better. There were pants cropped high to reveal the boot of the season—with two-tone, "tank tread" rubber soles for maximum traction—and coated knits, but the moral of the story was Fall's high-volume coat, an item that's been receiving even more than usual attention this season. After Spring's parade of neon, for Fall the designer played up the nuances of a darker strain. The show was all almost black: blue-black, green-black, silver-black, "the effect of black but not black," said Giornetti. On the same note, the coats were leather, but not just leather—they were hybrids, the skins rubberized or felt-backed to be fully reversible. Others had linings in shearling or cashmere. "When you open the garment, you find the layering," Giornetti said, with the kind of wondering, plumb-the-depths glee a treasure-hunter might have for digging for gold. But, given that luxury is his guiding principle at Ferragamo, the comparison is apt. This season's is a tough luxury. "Sometimes we need it," he said. The message got hammered home a bit over the course of a long show, but so did this one: Ferragamo makes some very good outerwear. Given that there are those who still think of the label for shoes and ties alone, it's not a bad reminder.