January 17, 2013 Paris
At the exact opposite end of the sartorial spectrum, there were coats, blousons, and jackets woven from fabrics from old collections with a traditional technique called sakiori. Sashiko (stitch work) was used for argyle patterning. The show notes are always scrupulously careful in this house to make clear exactly which fabrics and techniques are being employed. Something those notes referred to as "the traditional picnic blanket" inspired quilted, square-cut, zipped jackets that had an odd samurai flair. They also "fold flat and roll up for easy carrying."
The emphasis on utility was admirable, even if it ultimately meant that the collection didn't sing the way a Miyake collection can. Still, the ever pragmatic Issey would undoubtedly consider that a small price to pay for clothes that guarantee, in the words of the designer's scribe, "a freer lifestyle during the winter months." And, as the snow continues to fall, thousands of Parisians would surely agree.