Thom Browne's latest spectacular for Moncler Gamme Bleu was set in a winter wonderland of snow and ice-silvered trees—one with a few dead-in-their-armor knights lying around it. Game of Thrones? a few wags wondered.

Ach, no. The first look made all clear with the tartan (one of four developed specifically for this collection), the kilt, and then, the keening bagpipe sound: "Scotland, all things Scottish," Thom confirmed after the show. The Highlands agree with him. The land of men in skirts, the man who never shied away from one: They've had this date from the beginning. But Browne demurred. It was the kilts' traditional pleats that wowed him, and he spun them off onto capes and belted fencing-style jackets, too. The Scottish isles being the home of some of the world's finest wool, there was no shortage of Shetland here. But just as wowing was the way Browne combined it with Moncler's more technical garb, most impressively in parkas and vests that seemed to bleed from wool to puffer down.

The idea, Browne said, grew out of his madras-filled Spring namesake show. He's on a plaid world tour. The knights—those were real suits of armor, for the record, some hundreds of years old—may be felled, but Browne lives to fight another day. Next stop? Who knows.