Paul & Joe
's Sophie Albou was inspired by the Belgian surrealist René Magritte for Fall. Thinking of his painting Le Fils de l'Homme,
she built a cloud-covered set and brought in the bowler hats. Blue-sky thinking is a fact of life at Paul & Joe, so maybe the influence made sense, or maybe surrealism is a cute way to explain novelty-print shirts like the one she created with rows of mounted stag heads. They, and a handful of Magritte takeoff T-shirts, were the clearest markers of the surreal. The rest of the collection looked more to Magritte's own times, especially the thirties and forties, for silhouettes like the pleated, wider-leg pants that Albou showed as part of houndstooth and Prince of Wales suits. The most excitement was saved for a variety of very fine Made in France coats, now a larger part of the line than ever before. They, too, had a larger-bodied retro feel, though the faux-fur collar (Albou turns up her nose at the real stuff) was closer to today. They were ably modeled by her son and sometime coworker, Adrien. Le Fils de l'Homme,
meet le fils de la femme.