Give a designer long enough, and eventually he'll head for the country. This season, Umit Benan did. The floor of his venue was covered with fallen leaves, and the family greyhounds were sniffing around. "The asphalt jungle is distant," the show's notes announced. Arrivederci, Milano.

The change of scene offered reason enough for a parade of country coats and hiking-boot-cum-trainers. It was a shopper's feast of double-breasted overcoats, cotton mac raincoats with raglan sleeves, popover hooded anoraks, and leather field jackets. All of them—plus snug suit jackets and cropped pants—closed with Velcro patches on neoprene tabs. It made for a nice touch (not to mention likely helped to keep out the dust and leaf litter the models kicked up).

It had less of the thick-spun narrative trappings that have earned Benan the tag "designer/storyteller" (at least, as far as the company's press arm would have it), but a vacation from the usual yarns put the designer in a sales-friendly place. In any case, a few funky double-breasted suits in wide-wale cord hinted at tales left to tell.