February 07, 2013 New York
Incorporating all that skin ended up elevating a collection that's long been expensive in make but not always in outward appearance. And it made for Snyder's most successful outing to date. The clothes and styled looks still have the feel of good vintage. (In this case, there's a good reason: The collection grew out of a 1950s leather jacket Snyder found in a thrift store in Leeds.) That vintage aspect can occasionally make the collection seem stilted. But it also lends a rediscovered-treasure quality to the individual pieces, one Snyder is careful to cultivate: These things don't distress themselves. In any case, a few items without such weight of history pointed to intriguing new possibilities. The glen plaid suiting in jersey knit, for example, was resilient and pliable, but fully constructed (at Southwick, the Massachusetts factory where all of Snyder's tailoring is made) and subtle enough to pass.