January 14, 2013 Milan
Benan explained that among these guys were dads with serious day jobs who were irresistibly drawn to the risks attached to tagging, sometimes without their families even knowing where they went at night. He loved the idea of the worlds contaminating each other. "Italian menswear meets Supreme," he called it. High got a touch of low with a three-piece navy pinstripe suit whose waistcoat zipped rather than buttoned. Other jackets were transformed by contrast sleeves and zipped pockets. Low got high when Benan expanded a parka into a silken blue robe, or attached houndstooth sleeves to a bomber jacket in a deluxe nylon.
Given that it was inspired by polar opposites, the collection was never going to sit together with any particular coherence. Those pinstripes shared the catwalk with cartoon checkerboard sweats, after all. It's Benan's respect for the risk-taking individual that guarantees that his own strength as a designer lies in the creation of stand-alone items, like the leather jackets here, that hardly need the theatrics to make sense. Not that we would want Umit to stop the show. It's the coolest catwalk in Milan.