Leaving the industry for a year and buying back the rights to his name brought about personal growth for Adam Lippes. Accordingly, the new eponymous collection that he debuted for Fall is decidedly more grown-up than his former ADAM line. "It's a total progression in a lot of ways," the designer said. "I am excited to produce this kind of quality, and proud of the work that goes into each piece."

He emphasized ease and simplicity with sportswear staples, including a sweeping navy military topcoat, as well as a sharp vest-and-trousers set shown with a silk tie-neck blouse—all in crisp winter white—that was a new way to wear a suit. To help get the fit just right, Lippes brought in a menswear tailor. ("They know how to make a jacket," he explained.) He also experimented with innovative fabrics like a duchesse satin bonded with French lace, which was cut into a cool skirt that stood away from the body. Paired with a gauzy sweater featuring subtle mesh inserts, the look was casual yet elegant, and suggested a promising fresh start for Lippes.