"It's a big change for me," Anthony Vaccarello said backstage, "there's nothing fitted." Nothing fitted? The Belgian Vaccarello has built his reputation so far on super-revealing, more-bare-than-there party frocks. He's always included a few tailored pieces in his lineups, but until now it's been Karlie Kloss' six-pack or Anja Rubik's hip bone that have landed him headlines. He hasn't gone respectable on us—not with Karmen and Isabeli rocking evening dresses inset with embroideries of silver discs that made it clear they weren't wearing underwear. Still, you will notice a new emphasis on outerwear, leather separates, and knits. If that sounds hopelessly dreary—like he's been listening too closely to the department stores—it wasn't.

Vaccarello kept coats interesting by inserting chain-link embroideries at the cuffs, or using silver spikes instead of toggle closures, hardware that reappeared on sandals and boots. He's never worked with leather before, but you wouldn't guess he was a beginner. A blouson dress with a dropped waist, rounded shoulders, popped collar, and pushed-up sleeves looked killer. For gals who like things a little more body-con, he showed a button-up top tucked into a tiny mini with an asymmetric hem paneled in those silver discs. The ribbed angora crews and turtlenecks softened the tough-chic vibe of other hardware-strewn leather minis. The key to the new feeling of the collection was probably the double-crepe he used for many of the looks, those finale dresses included. "When you wear it, you feel comfortable," he said. Comfortable and sexy at the same time? It's a combination that could really take Vaccarello places.