Anne Valérie Hash has always had a special affection for jumpsuits. This season, she devoted her whole collection to them. At the informal presentation in her tenth arrondissement atelier, Hash said, "I want to do what I want, and not to do what other people want." Preach, sister! Hash has one of those small, independent companies for which the speedy fashion cycles can be challenging, so it was great to see her so energized by streamlining her approach.

"They're the new smoking, in a way," she said of her dozen or so pieces. Cut in black, white, or gray, most could easily stand in for a cocktail dress when paired with sexy heels. It would've been the predictable thing to show them that way; instead, Hash paired them with Nike Air Max sneakers, giving them a casual vibe, more flight suit than black tie. The shoes were one thing that gave this presentation its refreshing feel, another was Hash's nimble cuts. Some jumpsuits became trompe l'oeil pantsuits; quite well executed, they looked like a jacket and trousers but were actually one piece. Other more delicate numbers were patchworked front and back with different kinds of lace. A few with deep sashes spilling from one hip keyed into a look Raf Simons has been pitching at Dior. That's good company for this little label. Thinking small sometimes yields big rewards.