This season at BCBG Max Azria
, the fusion of two disparate influences—Istanbul and Phil Frost's gritty contemporary art—brought about a collection that was decidedly more street than sweet. "We wanted to take something that was centuries old and combine it with something modern," Lubov Azria said at a preview. The filmy silk slips that were the foundation of many of these heavily layered outfits had a slight gypsy feel. They were shown over casual T-shirts and cashmere pullovers, then topped with statement-making outerwear items like colorful patchworked fur vests, boxy leather biker jackets, and sporty jacquard hoodies with voluminous fox-trimmed hoods. It was refreshing when a few of the more pared-down pieces, including a clean mesh tuxedo tank, came down the runway. In general, this piled-up, coat-centric look advanced a tougher, more urban version of the BCBG woman.