The first handful of looks gave an inkling of the direction: Belstaff was going back to its roots. The label rose to fame on the waxed cotton Trialmaster jacket, and after avoiding the fabric for several seasons, creative director Martin Cooper embraced it with a flourish. It wasn't just jackets. Now skirts and trousers came in oil-slick black waxed cotton, too. "It was really about the heritage of the brand," Cooper said backstage after the show. "It's all about embracing what is our heritage iconic cloth, which is waxed cotton. It's what is our calling card."

But the inkling wasn't binding. Despite recommitting to its own heritage, this collection actually found Cooper broadening his wares in ways not tried before. The expanded knitwear program was a good example. Yes, it maintained the moto touches, like reinforced elbow panels, that are Belstaff's bread and butter (or should that be oil and petrol?), but it also suggested a newfound ease. Throw a merino sweater on over one of Belstaff's new flounce skirts and high boots and you've got a look that's bike-ready without being bike-beholden.