Man Ray's photographs of muses Kiki de Montparnasse and Lee Miller were the driving force behind Bibhu Mohapatra's Fall collection, a modern take on 1930s eccentric style. A lattice print wove its way almost all the way through, from a gray and black jacquard coat for day—belted with a shapely leather corset—to a navy crepe evening gown with laser-cut leather sleeves. "My work is always very geometric," the designer said backstage at the show.

The graphic theme worked, but when Mohapatra swerved away from his vision, things were less peachy. A jet-beaded rose chiffon bustier gown—topped off with a purple velvet cape—looked out of place and dowdy, really. As did a navy bustier gown, overlaid with embroidered tulle.

But there were some formalwear highlights. A creamy tulle gown embroidered with vines of black diamonds looked modern, thanks to the addition of not-too-thin, not-too-thick off-the-shoulder straps. It all just needed to come together better. Mohapatra launched his collection in 2009 with decent fanfare. It's time for him to more thoroughly focus his ideas and define his mission.