The Musée Galliera's Olivier Saillard put a dress from Bouchra Jarrar's January collection side by side with a Chanel frock from the twenties in the new Paris Haute Couture exhibition at the Hôtel de Ville. Jarrar's days as Paris' best-kept secret may be coming to an end. More proof of that came at her showroom presentation today—a label representative reported that the coats from that runway show were particularly popular with retailers.

With outerwear so well represented in January, Jarrar's new collection was focused more on wardrobe basics like high-waisted pants, contrast-trim cardigans with deep shawl collars, and silk crepe blouses and dresses. Except that nothing is ever quite basic in Jarrar's hands, least of all a "total look" black and white checked pantsuit that she showed with a couple of her signature graphic scarves. The designer goes to great lengths to deliver uniqueness. The geranium red of a leather shift dress was specially made for her; same goes for the camel gabardine of her high-waisted pants. With Jarrar's profile on the rise, maybe it's time to move that January show a month back and combine those highly detailed clothes with the simpler ones here, so the larger crowds of ready-to-wear can see what the fuss is about.