It's not exactly warranted to call BLK DNM's womenswear "adventurous." Each season, though, Johan Lindeberg evolves his collection of wardrobe staples in unexpected ways, and this time out, he was in a particularly playful mood. The principles, of course, remain the same—slim denim, turned out in a variety of infinitesimally finessed washes; lots of leather; mannish tailoring. The play could be seen in the textural development of core BLK DNM pieces such as its iconic motorcycle jacket, which Lindeberg saw fit to execute in materials such as plush mohair. He has also extrapolated the motorcycle jacket in interesting ways, notably by introducing slim skirts with moto detailing like angled zips. This season's versions in paneled wool and leather were particularly good—tough and vampishly sexy.

Elsewhere, Lindeberg scored with his big, squared-off overcoats, which came in dense, fuzzy mohair, and with his excellent shearlings. The most intriguing development was the addition of a few luxury pieces—for Fall, he's created a selection of ultra-fine kangaroo skin leathers, with laser-cut floral detailing. These items will cost a lot, Lindeberg explained, but they'll only be sold at a very select group of stores and in limited quantities. Giving himself the freedom to work at a higher price point may prove creatively invigorating for Lindeberg—it's easy to imagine that techniques he develops for the luxury range will eventually diffuse to the BLK DNM collections as a whole.