February 26, 2013 Paris
Charlier was keen to emphasize the roundness of his silhouette, which seemed willful given the essential architectural angularity of the clothes he showed. There were indeed some big, beautiful topcoats, but they fought for attention against the sinuous layering of jackets, skirts, and skintight Bermudas. Precision is a Charlier signature. So is the hardware he defines it with. Copper zippers trailed down spines as an accent. When he added twee piecrust collars, it was techno's witty repudiation.
That's not where Charlier's heart lies, though. The soundtrack chucked Philip Glass's classical crack-up of Bowie's "Heroes" all over the place, and the models walked out at the finale in a lurid red light to the brutalist strains of The Normal's "Warm Leatherette." Still, Charlier is at the beginning of his career, and if his promise is dark, at least it's promise.