February 16, 2013 London
Both of these developments served to make this collection feel somewhat constrained in its ambition. The execution was typically assured, and there were a few knockout pieces, like the cropped jackets with doubled lapels and the twisted wool flannel jumpsuit that opened the show. But the focus seemed to be on producing conventionally proportioned, commercial looks—an impression underscored by the near-constant repetition of the Daks check. Still, McKain-Waid isn't a lazy designer, and even if this collection didn't always seem scaled for the runway, the individual pieces generally repaid close scrutiny. To wit, McKain-Waid's fantastic single-breasted macs, which had been shorn of breast flaps and shoulder pads and pretty much any other potentially extraneous detail; they weighed virtually nothing. The collection was full of good ideas like that. Here's hoping that next season McKain-Waid once again gives herself room to communicate all those good ideas with a bit more force.