To celebrate three decades in the business, Dennis Basso drew Fall inspiration from his personal fashion icons: C.Z. Guest, Babe Paley, and Millicent Rogers. "They all had a signature," Basso said backstage on Tuesday after posing extensively for the cameras with Coco Rocha, star of his 2013 campaign. "C.Z. Guest always wore a sweater over her shoulders. Babe Paley took a shoulder brooch and put it on her hip."

Basso has signatures, too—one of the most important being fur, the business in which he began. There might have been heightened security to ensure paint-throwing PETA supporters stayed away from the runway, but those who made it into the tents found plenty of sable, mink, and fox in colors as out-there as teal and chartreuse. A trapeze dress came in blue mink, and a gray mink and sable belted coat resembled extremely luxurious corduroy. Basso is also known for fancy dresses, and there were some pretty ones. A princess-style silhouette came in several sweet renditions, including gold tweed, taupe and cream plaid, and black tulle.

Basso occasionally takes things too far, even for most lunching ladies. (It's difficult to imagine Fred's populated with green alligator vests, isn't it?) But for fans including Martha Stewart, Joan Rivers, and Joan Collins—all sitting front-row—that outlandishness is the appeal. After all, it's Basso's signature, and one whose popularity has now been proven over a span of 30 years.