With apologies to Sophia Kokosalaki, who was formerly at Diesel Black Gold and is a talented designer, you have to wonder what took Renzo Rosso so long to install Andreas Melbostad at Diesel's high-end label. Melbostad, who made Phi white-hot with sexy young things by designing mostly black body-con clothes, is the perfect man for this label. As his motorcycle leather jackets, pants, and dresses stalked down the runway, women in the audience made mental shopping lists.

Melbostad isn't necessarily breaking any new ground, but he brings an exceptionally deft hand to the process. The fit on skinny wool pants, resin-treated so they looked sort of like worn-in leather, was great: narrow all the way down the leg, then unzipped a few inches at the ankle for a kicky little flare. Jackets and coats, too, showed off what Melbostad called his efforts to "bring new structure to the clothes." A side-zip jacket in that treated wool clung in the right places; a waxy trench had swagger. Studs have been everywhere and back again, but Melbostad did what he could to make them fresh; his are blunt and gunmetal gray, and he embroidered them in geometric grids. The leather minidress covered in them will be a workout, but we don't suppose that will stop girls from wanting to wear it. You won't find the midi lengths trending on other runways here. In fact, you can't get much more mini than the skirt with front zips that he paired with a lacquered sweatshirt. Expect to see a lot of these clothes in the front rows come September.