February 11, 2013 New York
There are great pictures floating around the Internet of Paulina Porizkova in Karan's groundbreaking 1985 collection. The designer's trick here was to tap into her DNA without feeling retro. No risk of that with sexy look number one, a jersey body-dress with a sheer inset at the waist topped by a matching stretchy wrap. Capes are trending big-time, and Donna did all kinds: asymmetrical and sweeping in jersey, built into a jacket in double-face neoprene, to the floor for evening. Opaque hosiery was another Karan innovation that we take for granted. Wrap skirts that flashed a hint of thigh were a reminder that she did them first, then went on to build an empire with them. Sharing the runway with the jersey layering pieces was eighties-ish tailoring. Double-breasted coats buttoned to the collar came with pronounced, rounded shoulders, while pleated trousers were full through the thigh, although they sat lower on the hips than they would've back in the day.
Karan lost the plot when it came to the slashed leather evening pieces—so much for simplicity. But we wouldn't be surprised to see some bright young thing nab the clingy brown long-sleeved number stitched together from leather, satin, and more of the designer's signature jersey.