March 04, 2013 Paris
The felting wasn't the only development here. Taking the Sydney Opera House as inspiration, Lee experimented with construction that echoed its sail-like architecture; one example of that was a series of bonded leather-and-neoprene skirts, which he'd draped from circular pieces of fabric. Then, riffing on the idea of sailing, he contemplated the effect of wind on materials: He gave a bit of unexpected lift to certain silhouettes, and developed a very cool cyclone print. Lee is a rigorous thinker. This collection wasn't as flashy as his last one, and though there was a decent amount of skin on display, it wasn't quite as sexy as his previous efforts, either. That felt like a loss, inasmuch as Lee is one of the very few designers who knows how to apply intellect to sex appeal. But there was still a lot of genuinely new thinking here, especially in the felted pieces. Those looks were so odd, and so good, you had to wish that Lee would give himself at least another season to explore the felting theme before he changes his game again.