February 16, 2013 London
Parts of this collection found Olowu working in an atypically muted key. Alongside his signature bias-cut, patchwork pattern dresses, he showed a range of pieces that ought to have a broad appeal, such as sharply cut, wide-leg trousers in melton wool, graphic mohair sweaters, and slinky, bias-cut gowns that conjured an old-school Hollywood glamour. Elsewhere, though, his designs were unusually exuberant, nowhere more so than in operatic capes done in multicolored feathers or floral embroidered silk. The looks in metallicized dévoré velvet or silk split the difference, effectively. But overall, the message was clear—whether operating at full volume or in a quieter register, Olowu made the case that polished women are entitled to have just as much fun in their clothes as girls are.