February 21, 2013
Dan and Dean Caten restaged the jazz club set from their men's show last month for their women's collection tonight. It was back to the 1940s again. Milan has made it official—that decade is a top Fall trend. But if the January menswear was a hit, this outing didn't strike as many of the right notes. The Caten brothers are tailors; they're less convincing as eveningwear designers. Proof of that was to be found in the way several of the models had to carry their trains or otherwise risk life and limb. Another occupational hazard: the occasional nipple slip. What's worse: falling flat on your face or exposing half a breast? That was the dilemma Karmen Pedaru found herself contemplating as she made her way down the runway. The models who wore the Catens' double-breasted suits with trousers flaring above peep-toe platforms had an easier time of it. Minus the bow ties and jabots, the paste jewels, and the cigarette holders, the assured tailoring had real-world appeal. Same goes for a few of the skirtsuits. But for these guys, the show will always be the thing.