Talk about cutting the treacle. One look on Emilio de la Morena's runway today summed up this emphatically ruffle-free collection: a pair of tailored black-and-gray trousers, topped by a vest of gridded black felted wool. Sharp, sharp, sharp. Not every look here was as triumphant as that one, but all of them affirmed de la Morena's de-fussed new direction. Geometry was the overarching theme this season, which the designer elaborated most compellingly through the gridding technique seen on that black felted top, along with a multitude of other pieces. The effect was always interesting, but the idea worked better on some garments than others.

Elsewhere, de la Morena made fine use of a cool, kaleidoscopic octagonal print, and cut angled slits into his pencil skirts. Good old Euclid always makes for an effective antidote to froth. The primary quibble was with the flapped dresses—these were a nice idea in theory, but the strips of fabric at the front of the skirts had an unhappy habit of getting caught between the models' legs as they walked. That was an off note in a collection that generally emphasized the practical—something of a breakthrough development for de la Morena, in fact. The daywear here dispensed with the conceptual, for the most part, and made an impact just by looking good. The trousers and coats were terrific, and though a slouchy jumpsuit in plush wool seemed an outlier to the rest of the collection, the look on its own was a winner. All in all, this show saw Emilio de la Morena settling into a nice new rhythm—his characteristic fastidiousness still applied, but he also found ways to cut loose.