while maintaining the somewhat excessive essence of the brand is the mission with which the recently promoted fashion director Daniel Wingate has been tasked. The past few collections indicate that Wingate is on track to steer the 35-year-old brand into the future. Here, the most successful looks were pared down. Sharp suiting separates in on-trend powder pink and a matching topcoat had an ageless appeal, while a tan leather T-shirt-and-pencil-skirt set also seemed fresh, particularly when styled with a sleek chrome belt. Still, Wingate isn't leading the label down a minimalist rabbit hole. He was more playful with outerwear and eveningwear. Patchworked fur coats and glam jumpsuits and column gowns trimmed with frothy feathers at the shoulders seemed more like the flashy old Escada. That's not necessarily a bad thing.