February 15, 2013 London
Twins Daniela and Annette Felder mostly stuck to their signatures as far as the shapes were concerned—tight, abbreviated miniskirts and dresses, and likewise short flared skirts; lean yet diaphanous long silk dresses; some trim, tailored outerwear. But they elaborated those silhouettes by, say, producing a long wrap dress with a strong forties shoulder in leopard-spot dévoré velvet, or making miniskirts in quilted organza. Elsewhere, there was an abundance of a velvet bouclé with a texture much like Persian lamb; the material was very cool, though the Felders' use of it in a slouchy suit was somewhat misbegotten. Their hits of ponyskin were better judged, in particular the nice touch of burgundy pony on the sharp burgundy wool trenchcoat that opened the show. In general, though, the standouts here were the latex pieces; they'll be a challenge at retail, but they worked to bring an editorial elevation onto the runway, and the pieces felt idiomatically right for the brand. And in the meantime, there were plenty of other looks in this collection that will be easy to sell.