Watching Francesco Scognamiglio's show tonight made you appreciate fashion's industrial and educational complexes in New York and London. Those cities churn out young designers double-time compared to Milan. Scognamiglio is no longer a newcomer; nonetheless, he's one of the small handful of talents to emerge here in the last five or so years, and you get the feeling that he could've used more mentoring along the way.

Scognamiglio seemed to have scaled back his ambitions with his new collection for Fall. Many of the looks were variations of the first, a silk blouse with a bit of a ruffle snazzing up the situation, worn with high-waisted, full-leg pants. This season he mentioned the Veronica Lake flick Sullivan's Travels as inspiration, which explains the vaguely 1940s-ish shapes. Scognamiglio's tailoring is not to be quibbled with; he's always cut a great pair of trousers, and here he had a fanciful way with a blouse. But if he ran low on propositions, he had even fewer fabrics to work with. All the black and white wound up feeling repetitive, an issue not abetted by a gray-tone leopard, a print we've all seen too much of lately. Scognamiglio also knows his way around a long-line column dress. The white one he showed on Karmen Pedaru was pretty much faultless. You wished that he had the wherewithal, financial or otherwise, to expand on it.