February 20, 2013 Milan
Scognamiglio seemed to have scaled back his ambitions with his new collection for Fall. Many of the looks were variations of the first, a silk blouse with a bit of a ruffle snazzing up the situation, worn with high-waisted, full-leg pants. This season he mentioned the Veronica Lake flick Sullivan's Travels as inspiration, which explains the vaguely 1940s-ish shapes. Scognamiglio's tailoring is not to be quibbled with; he's always cut a great pair of trousers, and here he had a fanciful way with a blouse. But if he ran low on propositions, he had even fewer fabrics to work with. All the black and white wound up feeling repetitive, an issue not abetted by a gray-tone leopard, a print we've all seen too much of lately. Scognamiglio also knows his way around a long-line column dress. The white one he showed on Karmen Pedaru was pretty much faultless. You wished that he had the wherewithal, financial or otherwise, to expand on it.