is one of the finalists for this year's CFDA/Vogue
Fashion Fund award, and as designer Sofia Sizzi explained after her show today, the experience has made her think through the hallmarks of her brand. Giulietta will always be in conversation with the sixties, Sizzi noted, but that conversation can take any number of directions. This time out, Sizzi was conjuring a late-sixties, upscale bohemian vibe—the collection was a little Jane Birkin-esque. But only a little. Mostly, this collection was just very, very focused. Over the past few seasons, Sizzi's clothes have accumulated some girlish twee, but all of that was stripped away this time and replaced with austere color blocking and understated, fluid silhouettes. Though spare, the color-blocked looks were often very pretty—to wit, the cape-topped black and red dress, which winked a bit of skin in the back. In general, though, they expressed a grown-up sense of purpose. That was even true of Sizzi's elegant caped tops—she should get some of kind of award just for figuring out how to make an essentially nonfunctional, silly garment seem practical and cool. This she achieved by slicing her capes open all the way to the shoulder, and fusing them to trim wool turtlenecks. The best iteration of the look paired a black and white version of the top with a well-cut pair of white trousers.
Elsewhere, Sizzi introduced an attractive tile print to the mix, which broke up the uniformity of her color blocking without diffusing its impact too much. The signature Giulietta culottes in the tile print were a definite winner, though they might have been nicer without the crystal embellishment. At the close of the show, a tonal version of the tile pattern found its way into the collection's evening looks, which were substantially weaker than anything else here. But overall, Sizzi's take on the almost-but-not-quite seventies was fluent, distinctive, and modern.