February 08, 2013 New York
To start, they showed a coat, a jacket, and then a dress in heather gray with heat-transferred laser-cut film shapes swooping and arcing across their fronts. The technique was particularly successful on a short jacket with cross-body closure that was shown with the Colovoses' great-looking stovepipe pants. Graphic, geometric patterns recurred throughout the collection, as a print on an easy dress with short leather sleeves and a leather waistband, and on another dress engineered from over 125 pieces of leather, felt, ponyskin, and silk. Most of it worked, save for a pair of too-busy suits in a black and white version of that print.
If all that sounds a tad ornate, though, for every embellished piece, there was another one that was unadorned. A black coat with a contrast notched collar in gray and the double-breasted pantsuit worn underneath it skewed minimalist and sleek. As for cozy layers, it's hard to top a midnight blue rabbit fur jacket that they laser-cut for added depth and texture.