Jay Ahr's Jonathan Riss has quietly shown his ready-to-wear collection at his showrooms in Paris and New York over the years. It was a setup that worked well for the designer, since you could touch and feel the embroideries he's so passionate about. This season, for the first time, the expansion-minded Riss did a presentation for buyers and editors of 20 new looks next door to his store on the rue de Rivoli.

Mainly black and white, with a couple of pieces in nude, everything was short and sexy, even daywear looks like the flouncy wool skirts paired with oversize angora sweaters. Riss wanted the collection to feel urban, and these leggy outfits will certainly get noticed in the street. But it was his embroideries that were the main event. The designer worked with silver chains that he twisted and knotted, then assembled onto leather braids or lace, for an effect both fragile and fearless.

After the show, a top retailer taking a closer look at the pieces, especially the miniskirt with chain details, said, "We have to have this at the store." It looks like Riss' new way of showing is working for him.