On the last day of New York fashion week, Juan Carlos Obando staged a small show for about a dozen editors, buyers, and stylists in the parlor of a mansion on the Upper East Side. "There's nothing to hide behind—no actresses sitting in the front rows," he said afterward. For the past several seasons, the designer has been finding a voice and refining what he calls his unassuming approach to eveningwear. Obando achieved that for Fall with a concise collection that played up vibrant colors, which have become a calling card.

Elegant peasant blouses and hand-pleated silk skirts with haphazard high slits came in a range of saturated hues including teal, emerald, coral, plum, and aubergine. Styled with braided rope belts and lace-up metallic Manolo Blahnik sandals, the clothes had a slightly bohemian flair. Meanwhile, the most innovative looks paired streaming chiffon tops with sharp trousers.

The result was dressed-up yet nonchalant, and ultimately modern. Equally modern were the rose gold bracelets, collars, and pendant necklaces—all handwrought by Obando himself—that reportedly arrived in Barneys Co-op stores just after the show wrapped. "She won't buy a $2,000 dress, but she will buy a $300 cuff," he said. It's ideas like those that will continue to make Obando an increasing part of the conversation.