operation is so well-oiled and so canny, it's easy to forget that there's some magic in it, too. Womenswear designer Tom Mora is the person with the tricky job of breathing new life into the established J.Crew look each season; by now, the conventions of that look are crystal clear, in particular its signature embellishment of preppy American sportswear staples with eclectic details. It's a formula, but as this collection reminded you, the clothes are never formulaic. There's always a sense of spontaneity. This season, the spontaneity derived from Mora's Moroccan inspiration—the result of a trip to Marrakech he took on a whim at the close of last season. Marrakech is a familiar fashion reference, of course, but it was interesting to see it translated into the clean-cut J.Crew idiom. Notable looks included coats in punchy tile prints, a crewneck sweater with a dense Moroccan rug knit, silk tees with sequined arabesques, and a natty navy peacoat embroidered with gold bullion; elsewhere, interpreting the reference more liberally, there was a great tweed suit that picked up the tile print's eye-popping palette, and a draped wool coat with a subtle beaded lapel. Jewel details were a theme, as were glittery brocade and jacquard; more understated items included J.Crew's new trouser silhouette, a cropped, boyish pair, and schoolboy jackets with conspicuously trim shoulders. All in all, it seemed like there was some extra magic in the formula this time.