While vintage-inspired shirtdresses have reigned over the past several Jil Sander Navy
collections, Fall offered a more complete range of silhouettes and separates that had a slight masculine tenor. Compared to the feminine frocks from recent seasons, the tailored pantsuits here had austerity that hewed closer to the house's clean aesthetic (perhaps that was the design studio's nod to the fact that Jil Sander herself has returned to the helm of her main line). Tapered trousers that sat low on the hips featured tucked pleats that elongated the legs, while sharp wool jackets were cropped and boxy with raw edges. Subtle details like those unfinished, raw edges are effectively what differentiate Navy from collection. Leather was introduced for the first time here in the form of double-breasted shearling toppers, folded miniskirts, and slim leggings, which gave the lineup a tough edge that was previously lacking. Still, Navy didn't completely lose touch with its former softer side. A-line skirts were carried over and took on more of a geometric look when paired with crisp button-ups or neat gabardine capes.