Los Angeles designer Jasmin Shokrian launched Draft No. 17, a line focused on reinterpreting her signature sculptural silhouettes at a lower price point, back in 2009. At a presentation of the new Fall range, the designer explained that while Draft is commercially viable, she misses working with luxurious textured fabrics and intricate handcrafted details. As a result, she's decided to elevate the quality and construction of the diffusion collection. It paid off: The clothes may wind up being pricier, but their special feel will speak to her customers.

Shokrian's intention was "to create clothes that meet at the intersection of order and chaos." Those contradictory concepts harmonized in pieces like midi skirts that merged sturdy canvas with soft pleats, as well as cape-sleeve jackets that were simultaneously tailored and cocoon-shaped. Shokrian breathed new life into hallmarks such as judo pants, kimono dresses, and circular blouses, which had a stricter sensibility this time around. Outerwear was a surprising highlight. The boyish double-breasted peacoat and a petal-pink cashmere vest that stood away from the body and tapered all the way down were particular standouts.