Kaelen Haworth's experimentation with novelty fabrics this season yielded her most accomplished collection yet. At the Kaelen
Fall presentation, the up-and-coming designer explained that she was going for a "sophisticated grunge" look and referenced nineties cult films like The Virgin Suicides
and The Craft
while developing the lineup, which was full of moody purples and inky blacks. Haworth recalled "falling in love" with a metallic jacquard, which looks like crushed velvet from a distance, and whipped it into slouchy biker pants as well as a below-the-knee dress with an open back. Shearling-trimmed vests and moto jackets came in a surprising, lovely shade of lavender, while laser-cut leather button-ups and pencil skirts offered a toughened-up alternative to delicate lace. Haworth used a rich grape-colored silk faille on sporty parka jackets and long culotte shorts that she paired with a peony-print organza sweatshirt. That nicely illustrated the designer's subtle, elevated approach to streetwear.