Spies: so hot right now. Designers Ken Kaufman and Isaac Franco are just one of many labels claiming that espionage inspired their Fall collection.

In this case, the reference was pretty clear in a trench called the Interrogator—available in both distressed calf and glazed felt—and several long column dresses. One, shown in a mossy matte jersey, and another in a charcoal wool were sexy and just subtle enough for a modern Miss Moneypenny. Kaufman and Franco, who launched their label in 2004 and hosted their first ever runway show today, are also obsessed with the idea of a good girl gone bad. "Like, if Rosemary ended up being evil at the end of Rosemary's Baby," said Kaufman before the show. A demonic Rosemary would love the gunmetal sequins, applied in an ombré pattern to the one dress with a sixties-mod feeling about it.

While Kaufman and Franco are proud of the moves they've made into sportswear—this season's offering included black leather minis, leather shift dresses, and a gazillion pairs of fairly unexceptional leather pants—their vision for evening remains stronger by far. (They've dressed a number of celebrities, from Taylor Swift to Jane Krakowski to Jennifer Aniston.) The casual furs were nice, but when the fluffy stuff is coming down the runways in gobs, you have to better distinguish it from the rest. The duo was recently selected to redesign American Airlines' staff uniforms. It would be smart of them to use that utilitarian experience to inform the day clothes next season.