February 15, 2013 London
Pejoksi will be forever known for dressing Björk as the swan who laid an egg on Oscar's red carpet, but time has moved on for him and partner Sasko Bezovski. Their Soho shop Kokon to Zai defined a particular kind of clubby cyber-style, and since their relocation to Bali nine years ago, they've evolved that shtick into a substantial global business, with Balinese craftsmen able to turn Pejoksi and co-designer Koji Maruyama's most extreme flights of fancy into mass-producible clothes. Like the embroidered leather or patchwork fake fur pieces here. There has always been a cartoon-y verve in Pejoski's clothes—fancy a black lace skating skirt flared over gold highwayman's boots?—but this collection tapped a timely vein in its evocation of the modern witch. The designers used the tarot pack as inspiration for prints, color palette, and the words that ran up and down garments (Magician! Death! Order of the Golden Dawn!). Contrasted with that street-style branding was a dramatic couture-influenced silhouette. The same face-off was evident in the way the fabrics ran a gamut from rubber to organza. It's no surprise that there are corners of the world where the over-the-top essence of such clothes will forever stand for "London," such was the vividness of the trail blazed by Westwood in her eighties prime. But she's lucky she has acolytes as accomplished as Pejoski, Bezovski, and Maruyama to keep the flame alive.