Karen Walker is a serious music fan, and several of her best collections have been inspired, more or less directly, by whatever it is she's had blasting through her headphones. Today's show found Walker riffing on the venomous post-punk of Siouxsie and the Banshees and the Damned, source material that she translated into one of her most compelling outings in a while. There was a welcome shift in attitude here—simply put, Walker dispensed with quirky and replaced it with a tougher, more rebellious tone of youthful eccentricity. One garment encapsulated the change, a duster-length trenchcoat that was downright intimidating, especially in black. But even pieces that could have been twee, like a pair of cropped trousers with bow-fronted, crisscrossed suspenders, had a punkish je ne sais quoi.

Alongside the collection's upgraded toughness, there was a new sense of sophistication, too. Walker had seriously de-fussed her looks, emphasizing clean silhouettes and solid colors, and though it was easy to imagine the typical young Walker fan wearing the collection's simple wrap vests or belted tunic dresses, you could also see a fashionably pared-down woman of any age falling for the allure in those looks. Similarly, Walker's slouchy trousers, flared biker jackets, and neoprene floral skirts could translate into a wide variety of wardrobes and be worn in many ways. To sum up this show with a musical analogy: If the attitude of Walker's collection was the beat that made you prick up your ears and take notice, then the melody you'd find yourself humming days later was its broadly appealing polish.