had an art history lesson in store for her guests today. When she discovered a little-known Spanish painter, Federico Beltrán Masses, at Frieze, she knew she was on to something. The designer found his portraits of powerful women in Hollywood between the World Wars particularly riveting, so she lifted his color palette—golds, acid greens, and "emerald blues"—and designed her dresses along long, lean 1930s lines. It made for a much more persuasive collection than last season's. Beccaria sidestepped daywear for Spring, but for Fall she had winning suggestions in the form of slim tailleurs, either in navy and black tweed bouclé shot with lace, or ivory stretch lace macramé. A delicate embroidered cardigan tucked into high-waisted pants channeled Katharine Hepburn.
Evening, of course, is where it's at for Beccaria, so she put most of the focus on cocktail dresses and gowns. That made for a somewhat repetitive conclusion to the show, but some numbers did stand out. The long-sleeve bias-cut columns should do well with Beccaria's body-beautiful Hollywood clientele. Meanwhile, an acid-green full-skirted gown with an embroidered black tulle overlay was the piece most evocative of her painterly inspiration.